Thursday, March 4, 2010

Oscars



82nd Academy Awards is on Sunday and I've yet to decide on a recipe (or recipes) to try. Feels like it needs to be worthy of Alec Baldwin (who Vanity Fair calls Too Big To Fail) and Steve Martin (Canadian). Seriously, was Ricky Gervais that bad at the Globes that we needed two hosts for the Oscars to make up for it?


There's really only two directions to go. Option a) TV-centric, crunchy, golden and deep-fried OR option b) carnivorous with a testosterone driven red. Since, I'm nowhere near the chapters of cooking protein, I'm going with option a. This book is supposed to last throughout 2010. So, am taking my time. And also very intimidated by the photos of the later chapters. Vegetables, I can handle. 


This time of year, what we Southern Californians can call the end of winter a.k.a. 64 and sunny, reminds me of  when I was almost 21, visiting not even living in LA, no money, no dream, no car, no boyfriend, I had no clue either. 

Spent Christmas 2000 with my family in LA. Was planning to go back to South East Asia just after the holidays were over because well, I was living there at that time. A call comes in from Manila and it's an ex-boss who used to be the executive pastry chef at Morton's in West Hollywood. Before I could even say, "Hi Buds, how are you??" I had been recommended to be interim pastry chef at Morton's. For, um, tomorrow. Castle Rock had bought the restaurant out for their holiday cocktail party  and needed this pastry chef in the kitchen at 8AM. Huh?? Well... Another pastry chef either walked out, was sacked, failed a drug test or a spelling test, got caught being paid off by the paparazzi or handing their resume to an agent in the dining room. Whatever - they lost one. Rob Reiner was throwing a party and damn it, someone needed to make mini brownies and blondies. So there I was, fresh out of Culinary School, just finished my stage (apprenticeship) with Jeremiah Tower, about to walk into day one of the 9th ring of the Hollywood's elite dining circle. Clearly, I had no clue where this was going and / or what I was in for. 

It gets better. 

Castle Rock's little party turned into a semi-permanent gig. Three weeks and (what felt like) 1000 hours into my little slice of West Hollywood I found myself planning my first Vanity Fair Oscar Party dessert menu. Once again not having a clue or knowing the gravity of the situation. I planned this menu to impress. I was so (stupidly) ambitious. This was Vanity Fair, after all. At least, I knew what VF was or is. I've read old issues from the 80's in our student house when I was studying in London. Ya, I was fully aware of my clientele. I actually did say those words out loud. Only to have my chef LOL me to my face. Lorenzo (chef) proceeds to tell me that 1/3 of the guests who come don't eat, the other third can only eat undressed lettuce due to the fact that they're on their ninth quadruple heart bypass and the other third is kosher so their food gets delivered. My grand plan of replicating Pierre Herme's Riviera (7 kinds of chocolate, in 7 different forms, all stacked in one cylinder) was out the door faster then a B- script. 

Relentless, I came up with a Sea Salt and Caramel Praline Semi Fredo with Blood Orange Glee and a Steeped Mint Sauce Reduction for the dinner. After-party cocktail reception had all these handmade, toiled-over petites fours and quantities in the thousands. Three thousand (yup, 3000) miniature dark chocolate and almond biscotti, 3500 fresh raspberry cheesecake squares, 4000 mini chocolate chip cookies with little things of milk to dunk cookies in. I remember being up for the whole week and being crabby for the first 3 days AND the following 4 days. I thought the week would not end. I loved being in it. 

Less then a week later I had flown back to Manila. I had finished my tour. Lived to tell, etc-etc. I was invited to be the after Oscar Party's pastry chef 6 more times. 

VF Party of 2006 felt really different. I had this feeling like I had to take mementos home, take photos (also because I could now afford a little digital camera) and spend quality time with my "classmates" (for these parties, it's almost like we get asked back and its the same chefs and line cooks and kitchen assistants). 

VF Crew 2006: 


(always the token girl)

This after party being my 6th one, I pretty much graduated my ideas of hand-blown sugar and and desserts standing on a point. We made the classic Apple Tart, about 3000 individual portions of them. 



Also about 10,000 of these vegetable breadsticks that Martha (as in Stewart) had recommended we make. 


There were about 6 of these rolling racks filled with 4-days worth of vegetable bread sticks


I write this uber-long post in the hopes that when I get to the end I've made a few selections. Um... I've got my top 3 and will either make two of three or three of three. 

Next: Spuddies | Bloomies | Le Kit Kat (there must be dessert). 

Can't wait for Sunday. 

P























Friday, February 26, 2010

Mushrooms are the short ribs of the vegetable kingdom

Alyson and I have been trying to connect, hop on the phone, respond to a text, post on our walls, send a message in a bottle with no luck. 

Since all that excitement about the Creminis I came across at Whole Foods, I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to get together, pour some wine, kickback, cook and blog. 

Then we take it a step further and invite our other friend Rachelle. An email goes out to wrangle everyone. This response comes back from Rachelle. 

Rachelle's email: "I would love to join you. I do have to confess though that I am not an avid mushroom enthusiast. But I would love the company and to join in the festivities. Thank you for the invite and thinking of me. I will bring the wine, do you both like red?" 

Me (inside my head): "But there's 4 pounds of Creminis and two-days worth of reduction involved!" 

Me on email: "Oh yaay! I promise, mushrooms aren't the only thing on the menu. Apparently, the 'Shoomwich is like a Croque Monsieur, sans ham. ha-ha! Vino is always welcome but not necessary. Can't wait to see the both of you... :)" 

Now I'm excited. I get ambitious... at some point I thought of making Duck a la Kumquat lollipops, even Baby Lamb sliders, Faux Gras (also from Happy in the Kitchen) was involved. The husband pulls me from the ledge of this 14-course meal. I'm keeping it simple. Pairing a small bites menu with the Shroomwich. Fine... another market stop, then off to the kitchen. 

Making Shroomich is a two-day, two and a half step process. 

Day one: Make the mushroom water and it's bi-product mushroom puree. 

We start with 4-LBS of Cremini mushrooms: 




Then cleaning the mushrooms... this takes about an hour. 


I found out mid-way through the cleaning process, it is best to use a dry paper towel. The texture or imprint (if you will) on the towel really speeds up the task. 

The recipe says to use a meat slicer to slice the 'shrooms paper thin. I'm not about the take a button Cremini to my monster sized meat slicer. I decide on the mandoline instead. The Creminis are so small that the mandoline slice guard does not hold the mushroom. So, I'm doing this without protection. Definitely watching the fingers. 






Now all the mushrooms in a large pot on medium to high heat. And let the ingredients sweat. 



This is what the first 45 mins looks like. I stir often. It makes a sound similar to indigestion in the middle of the night. At this point I'm so tempted to add water. In the hopes that it'll jump start the liquid rendering process. But I trust in Michel Richard's wisdom. I walk away and go catch a few minutes of Law & Order. 


I'm easily an hour into leaching the liquid out of the shrooms. And still not a lot of water. Although mushrooms have turned grey and wilted.  Now on what planet is it a good thing to turn grey and wilted? 

Worried. I've read and re-read the recipe 14 times. Did it really not say to add water?! I'm about ready to call Citronelle and ask a luckless chef who picks up the phone if I need to add water.  But it's 8PM PST and if I called Georgetown at this hour, deep regret will quickly follow. 

Moving right along



Coming back from another ten minutes of Law & Order. I find the brew looking very-very promising. The sound of a burrito-induced indigestion only getting louder (apparently, this is a good thing).  There's now liquid midway through the pot and it's smelling glorious. 

Turning the fire to low and keeping a nice simmer. 

I line a fine mesh sieve with 2 layers of cheese cloth to drain the nectar from the Creminis. 



At first the stream of jus is constant but only lasts about a minute. 

Huh?? 

Then going back to the book - it says to (in so many words) squeeze the living daylights out of the saturated mushroom puree. 



Squeeze I did. 



See - Jus. 


Giving my triceps a much need wake-up call, there's still so much liquid the puree is holding. 

Now what?! 

Genius over here is now using a kitchen towel. 





This has officially turned into a workout. 

I would have asked my Dave to do the squeeze work but he is currently playing Annie Leibovitz. 


I'm just hoping to get the most nectar out of the 4-lbs of Creminis I've invested into. 




This is what 4 pounds of mushrooms, 3 hours of rendering liquid and 2 Law & Order reruns buys me in jus and puree.


Day two: Finally making the 'Shroomwich. 



Mise en place

1 1/2 C mushroom juice, 3/4 C heavy cream, 2 shallots, 1 clove of garlic, 3/4 C mushroom puree, Gruyere, Brioche, butter, fine sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper

Again with the Shallots: 


I could have been expelled from Culinary School for simply walking into the kitchen with one of these Tele-marketing gadgets. 

But hey, first of all, this was not purchased at 12MN from the Sham-Wow guy. Second, it's a Rosle And
third... I now realize that does not matter, it does look like a toy I would have bought from the Sham-Wow guy. 

But, wait there's more... 

Mince 2 Shallots. And there's a lot of shallots. 



I typically don't like to send my friends home with a full-night's worth of heartburn along with their doggie bags.

I'm only using two-thirds. 

 

Now ingredients into a sauce pot. 



1 1/2 C mushroom juice, 3/4 C heavy cream and minced shallots. 

I use a microplane to grate 1 clove of garlic directly into the mixture. 

Keep on low heat until mixture is reduced into half.

Also, pre heat the oven to 250. 

Meanwhile back in the dining room... 
Alyson is showing Rachelle, what we've been up to in the blog.



Test the mushroom juice reduction.


 If it coats the back of a wooden spoon, then you're good to go. 
(Set aside, if needed.) 


Take the 3/4 C mushroom puree into a bowl, season with fine sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper. 



Add 6 TBSP of reduced mushroom jus into the season puree. 



Working with Brioche and butter



Generously butter 4 slices of Brioche 

Slice very-very thinly the Gruyere (almost slivers).

Assembly time

At the bottom of each buttered piece of Brioche arrange Gruyere slivers to fit into the bread. 

(Recipe calls for triming the crust to make pretty little sandwich squares. Ya, not so much for me.)



Assembly: Brioche, butter, Gruyere and mushroom puree. 




Topped with Gruyere, butter, Brioche



Almost there. 

Take a non-stick pan, add 1 TBSP canola oil or Pam.
(This totally not in the included in our mise en plus.)

Place pan on high heat. 
(Once more not part of the recipe. I'm such the little rebel.)

Butter the outer parts of the sandwich. Place the buttered surface on the pan. Pat down. 

Butter the other side of the sandwich 
(I'm a symmetrical butter-er). 



Once the first side is golden brown, flip. 

Once both sides are nice and golden brown, set aside on a cookie sheet. 

Once all four sandwiches have done getting golden, place them into a 250 oven for 15 minutes. 




This helps gratinate the Gruyere.
(Makes the cheese nice and gooey)

Remember the mushroom juice reduction? Well, let me tell you, it gets to be a dipping sauce for our 'Shroomwich. 

The reduction might need a tweak in seasoning. A little salt or pepper, maybe a squeeze of lemon or even a few drops of Tabasco. 

Taste before serving. 



'Shroomwiches are done, my friends! 



In serving: mushroom juice in a ramekin, 2 wedges on a plate. 



24-hours later, am about to try the 'Shroomwich. 

I'm mostly watching Rachelle's reaction. I'm thinking... thankfully she's partially filled up Goat Cheese, Quince and Endive Boats, Asparagus Cigars and Nuts. Also, she's been enjoying some wine. I think I'll be fine. 

Everyone gets served. I sit down. It's quiet. We're all trying to see who takes the first bite. Then Alyson Chin-Chins the sandwiches, which is nice.  Chin-chin, dip, bite, crunch and quiet. So we're all chewing still no one is talking. I'm watching Rachelle bob her head. Alyson wants to say something, she too is bobbing her head... this is torture!

Someone say something... 

What felt like a life time of silence and my cooking-blogging career coming to screeching halt. Really only lasted 15 seconds. 

Rachelle: "hmmm... I like it. I could drink this sauce." 

Me: bobbing my head. 

Dave: "It's very good." Chewing. Then taking a second piece. 

Me: Still bobbing my head. 

Alyson: "Mushrooms are so hearty. It's like a roast." 

Alyson taking a second bite. 

Rachelle, polishes her plate. 

Alyson: "Mushrooms are the short ribs of the vegetable kingdom"  

Me (inside my head): Ding! 

Wine: Bridlewood Estate Winery | Blue Roan Syrah | 2005 | Central Coast
         BV Century Cellars | Chardonnay | 2009 | California

Music: Suddenly I See and Chasing Cars Station on Pandora

Next: I'm thinking something fun for OSCARS.... Still thinking. Stay tuned. 

This was fun. Thanks for stopping by.